Goa, India

“Goa – the country’s main resort, as is often the case, is completely unlike the rest of India. The coastline stretches for 110 km here, forming 40 beautiful beaches. The state is divided into North and South parts, with Fort Aguada serving as the border between them.

Goa Like a Local: Travel Guide

According to legend, the first European to set foot on Goan soil—Portuguese explorer Afonso de Albuquerque—wanted to exclaim “Wow!” but choked on his port wine, so astonished was he by the sight before him. The colonizers immediately made Old Goa the capital of Portuguese India, admitting that the structures they discovered surpassed in beauty all the temples of the East. By that time, India’s history already spanned over 4,000 years. Under European rule, this small Indian state endured for another 400 years—until the mid-20th century—yet it never lost its uniqueness, and today it’s hard to imagine a freer land.

People come to Goa mainly for beach relaxation and Ayurveda—local masseurs and doctors quickly cure all the ailments of “big city life.” Goa’s sightseeing offerings are limited, but notable attractions include the Dudhsagar Waterfall, the village of Hampi with its ancient ruins, and popular water activities like boat trips and fishing.

Hotels and guesthouses in South Goa are considered expensive, even by Indian standards. They’re popular among affluent Europeans and wealthy Indians. The complete opposite is North Goa—relatively cheap, noisy, and democratic. In the 1960s, hippies fell in love with this place and never left. Today, the numerous villages of North Goa are mostly inhabited by partygoers from America and Europe, thanks to whom this region gained worldwide fame.

How to Get to Goa

Goa became a tourist destination relatively recently, about 50 years ago, when hippies began arriving along coastal routes—by land and sea. In the mid-1960s, Dabolim Airport—the state’s only aviation hub—opened its doors to international travelers. Since then, Dabolim Terminal has welcomed around 200,000 tourists annually from all over the world, including Ukraine. Flight time from Kyiv is 7.5 hours, with round-trip tickets starting from 19,000 UAH.

Some tourists travel to Goa by train. To do this, you’ll need to fly to Mumbai and then take a train to Goa. This option is attractive for its affordability—tickets to Mumbai are usually significantly cheaper than direct flights to Dabolim, even accounting for the train fare. The journey takes 9-13 hours, so check if the train stops at your desired station before buying a ticket. Trains also run to Goa from Delhi, but the trip takes about 30 hours, making the savings questionable.

Resorts of South Goa, India

Dona Paula, Colva, Bogmalo, Benaulim, Cavelossim, Palolem, Mobor, Majorda.

Additionally: Varca and Cavelossim—a 10-kilometer stretch of pristine coastline south of Benaulim, now a premium beach category. At least half a dozen luxury hotels have been built here.

Majorda—a 30-kilometer stretch of beaches combining coastal areas along 11 villages, from Velsao to Betalbatim. Bus services connect the villages along the coast. These beaches are considered the best in the entire resort, with palm and fruit groves leading down to the sea.

And Betul—the hardest beach to reach, requiring a motorboat ride. But the restaurants here serve the biggest and tastiest mussels in Goa.

Resorts of North Goa

Arambol, Anjuna, Aguada, Vagator, Calangute, Baga, Candolim and Sinquerim, Ashwem, Morjim, Mandrem.

Morjim is called the “Russian village”—about 80% of vacationers here are from Russia.

Additionally: Tiracol—the northernmost and least crowded beach in Goa, where the nearly deserted shell-covered shore is overlooked by Tiracol Fort (now the Heritage Hotel). This, along with Arambol and Morjim, attracts lovers of peace and solitude.

Indian vendors diligently expand their vocabulary with words like “look,” “how are you,” “cheap,” and “buy an elephant.” There are plenty of Russian restaurants here, with menus that always include pancakes, borscht, and dumplings. The local police chief even attends the openings of new establishments.

Vacation in India: When, Where, and Why

Transportation

The backbone of urban transport in Goa consists of buses, taxis, and rickshaws. Scooter, bicycle, motorcycle, and car rentals are also widely available. For sightseeing, travelers can also use river ferries and boats. When choosing your mode of transport in Goa, remember the rule: “When in India, bargain.”

Train

Trains from other Indian states arrive at Madgaon Station. Also worth noting are the Thivim and Karmali stations—not all trains stop there, but they’re conveniently located near popular resorts. Thivim is about 20 km from Vagator, and Karmali is around 12 km from Panaji.

Train fares in India depend on distance and class. The most common classes are 2S, SL, CC, and EC (budget options) and 1A, 2A, 3A (comfortable first, second, and third-class coaches). Several trains run daily from Mumbai toward Goa, taking 9 to 13 hours. Ticket prices vary: $25-40 gets you a fast train to Madgaon in a sleeper car, while a third-class air-conditioned coach costs about $16, and first-class runs around $42. Taxis and rickshaws await passengers near railway stations, and bus routes are also available. Prices on this page are based on the Indian rupee exchange rate as of January 2023.

Bus

The cheapest way to get around Goa is by bus. Fares range from $0.20 to $3 depending on distance. Moreover, buses in Goa are perhaps the only transport where conductors charge fixed ticket prices. Buses run along tourist zones, with no route numbers—only signs indicating the towns they pass through. Buses aren’t the fastest transport, often stuck in traffic while yielding to other vehicles. After 7-8 PM, buses rarely operate.

Rickshaw

Motor and cycle rickshaws attract tourists with their exotic appeal and price—$0.15 to $0.30 per kilometer, depending on distance. Certified rickshaws operate under the Prepaid system, with operator booths found at train stations and the airport. If negotiating directly with a driver, discuss all details upfront (e.g., luggage fees) and ensure the meter starts at zero. Don’t forget to ask them to turn it on.

Taxi

Taxis are everywhere in Goa, costing $0.20 to $0.40 per kilometer—the farther you go, the cheaper it gets. At Goa Airport, you can use prepaid services for fixed fares. “Unofficial” taxi drivers will always quote inflated prices, so bargain.

Scooters, Bicycles, and Motorcycles

Many tourists rent scooters and motorcycles, which are very popular in Goa. Pros: complete freedom of movement. Cons: dangerous due to chaotic local driving, so inexperienced riders should avoid them. Bicycles are less popular—riding is hot, and other drivers constantly cut you off. Daily rentals cost $1.40-2.10 for bicycles, $2.80-5 for scooters, and $4-7 for motorcycles. Never leave documents as deposits—you might not get them back.

Car Rental in Goa

Renting a car suits those staying long-term and covering large distances, but it’s not the most convenient option given narrow roads and chaotic traffic. Local driving customs add complexity—drivers communicate with gestures and rarely follow speed limits, especially at night. Traffic jams aren’t daily but frequent. Parking is also scarce in small villages.

There are two rental options: with or without a driver. With a driver, the cost depends on mileage and route accuracy. Getting lost may lead to extra charges. On average, daily car rental with a driver (up to 250 km) costs $16-42, plus $4-7 daily driver wages (meals and lodging are usually included). One-way rentals may cost double since the driver must return.

When renting without a driver, ensure the car is insured and photograph any existing damage beforehand. Rental costs start at $9 per day, with monthly rentals around $140.

Ferries and Boats

Ferries aren’t full-fledged urban transport but help locals avoid traffic. They’re often free for pedestrians or cost up to $0.17. Boat rentals make sense for travel, costing thousands of rupees.

In South Goa, local companies offer short river and sea excursions. Speedboats take you to secluded beaches, while sunrise fishing trips ($21 for 3-4 hours) let you fish alongside locals. Crocodile-spotting on local rivers costs $20-30, and dolphin-watching starts at $20.

Internet and Wi-Fi

Not every Indian family can afford a computer, so internet cafés remain common. The equipment is outdated, but you can connect your laptop (considered safer). Rates start at $1 per hour (same price for using their or your device).

Wi-Fi in Goa is unreliable—even if hotels claim to offer it, connections are slow and unstable. One router often serves dozens of users, drastically reducing speed. Exceptions are upscale 4* and 5* hotels, where Wi-Fi usually works well.

Wi-Fi is also available in restaurants and small cafés. Policies vary: some offer it free with any order, others provide 30 minutes free, then charge up to $1 per hour. Parks have Free Wi-Fi benches, Devaki Travels buses offer wireless internet, and paid sunbed zones on beaches sometimes have coverage. Since signal quality is unreliable, buying a local SIM card is wise—mobile internet in Goa is much faster than Wi-Fi.

Tourist SIM cards are prepaid only, with validity matching visa expiration dates. Extending number retention costs $8-14.

All mobile operators in India spam relentlessly. Expect over a dozen commercial messages daily.

The best network operators are Airtel and Idea, offering the widest coverage. A standard tourist package (1 GB high-speed data + 3 hours of local calls) costs about $8. Calls to Russia start at $0.08. SIM activation may take 2-3 days.

Hotels in Goa

Accommodation in Goa is plentiful—hostels, hotels, guesthouses, rooms, and villas for rent. Budget hunters opt for bamboo huts (stilt houses made of bamboo). The most adventurous tourists even stay in tents.

Choose budget hotels (2-3*) carefully—read reviews first. In practice, something always goes wrong: the AC might not work, or a promised kids’ room lacks a babysitter. Upscale hotels offer extensive services and wellness programs, usually located away from bustling resorts. South Goa hotels differ from northern ones—closer to beaches, more upscale, and pricier.

Room rates range from $4 to $350 per night, dropping in the low season.

Renting a room, hut, house, or villa in Goa is affordable. Prices depend on beach proximity, amenities, and service. For example, a woven hut without a shower or fridge starts at $85/month, while a guesthouse room costs $150-210. Apartments start at $280/month. Renting a house or villa makes sense for groups or long stays—a comfortable three-bedroom house costs around $770/month.

Beachside bungalows cost $10-20/night. The upside: you live on the beach, breathe ocean air, and enjoy sunrises/sunsets. The downside: no soundproofing or AC, plus insect and rodent neighbors.

Goa’s Beaches

All beaches in Goa are state-owned and free to enter. Almost all sunbeds and umbrellas (except those owned by hotels) belong to beachside restaurants, making them “conditionally free.” If a tourist orders something, the sunbed is free regardless of order amount.

Sunbeds and umbrellas are available at any beachside café—just order a drink or snack.

Northern beaches feature volcanic dark gray sand. The shoreline is elevated, so many hotels have small beaches in lagoons. Southern beaches have fine, clean sand and calm, warm waters.

Diving

Diving in Goa isn’t spectacular but appeals to beginners. The Arabian Sea has few corals but teems with exotic fish, sea urchins, turtles, rays, mollusks, groupers, and even small sharks. Regular dives explore shipwrecks—not just ancient galleons and merchant vessels from colonial times but also WWII warships. Estimates suggest over 1,000 wrecks lie off Goa’s coast, with many sites still unexplored.

Dive centers operate on Grande and Saint George Islands. A two-day beginner course costs from $50.

For more exciting diving, visit Netrani Island in Karnataka (~200 km south of Goa). Also called Pigeon Island, it boasts richer marine life than Goa’s coast—lobsters, moray eels, barracudas, colorful fish, and even occasional orcas. Visibility reaches 30 m.

A two-day dive trip to Netrani from Goa (including transfers and lodging) costs $125-280, depending on the tour operator.

Shopping

Markets

One of Goa’s signature pastimes is market-hopping. Stalls and small shops sell everything—beach gear, spices, exotic fruits, souvenirs, snake-skin bags, silver jewelry, and vibrant home decor. Indian tea is sold everywhere, but high-quality varieties are rare and priced similarly to Ukraine. Silk products, pearl jewelry, and gemstones deserve special attention. When quoted a price, divide it by three and start bargaining. A pearl necklace priced at 2,000 INR can often be bought for 700 INR.

The most popular market among tourists is Anjuna’s Flea Market, where you can wander for hours and find anything. Beyond Indian stalls, check out “European rows” selling handmade footwear by local artisans and clothing by global/EU designers (mostly young, lesser-known names, so prices stay low). These unique, high-quality pieces cost less than in European malls. The market operates on Wednesdays only.

Mapusa’s Friday Market is more of a food market, catering to locals and long-term tourists. Vendors sell Indian herbs, spices, fruits, nuts, palm sugar, fish, milk, and tiny cafés. Locally made souvenirs—wooden and clay crafts—are also available.

Don’t miss Tibetan markets, found in many Goan towns. Here, you’ll find silverware, real pearls, and semi-precious metals. The craftsmanship may be rough, but designs are unique and authentic. Bargaining is expected and easy.

Goa’s special charm lies in its night markets, where shopping blends with entertainment—live music, DJs, bars, and dance clubs operate from 6 PM till dawn.

One of the most exotic night markets is Saturday Night Market between Anjuna and Arpora. It opens with a loud New Year’s party and runs until the tourist season ends. You could spend a fortune here—it’s a massive bazaar selling souvenirs, toys, fabrics, jewelry, décor, and even high-end designer items.

Another night market in Baga—Mackie’s Night Market—also opens on Saturdays but is smaller than Arpora’s.

Stores

Goa’s version of Fifth Avenue is Panaji’s 18th June Road and Mahatma Gandhi Road. Tourists flock here for brand-name items at much lower prices than in Ukraine or Europe. According to visitors, you can find affordable Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler, Benetton, Reebok, Lacoste, Pepe Jeans, Nike, etc. Panaji’s art galleries sell famous Portuguese azulejo tiles—perfect gifts or home décor.

Indian cosmetics are renowned for their natural ingredients—fragrant creams and herbal oils have proven effective for millennia. Buy them at pharmacies, specialty stores, or Ayurvedic clinics.

What to Try

Some tourists hesitate to try Indian food, fearing spices. However, Goan cuisine is the most Europeanized and least spicy in India, so feel free to indulge. Still, take precautions: drink bottled water and avoid street food.

Seafood is Goan cuisine’s hallmark—crabs, shrimp, lobsters, clams, octopus, shark, squid, langoustines, etc., grilled, baked, or in coconut milk. Meat, especially beef, is rarely served (cows are sacred).

Try biryani—India’s take on pilaf, made with rice, meat, chicken, or seafood. It’s spicy, so request “not spicy” when ordering.

Another local dish is “sizzler”—a side and meat (or fish) grilled on foil or a pan, served on a cabbage leaf. The secret lies in the chef’s signature sauce.

Goan flatbreads (like paratha, baked with ghee and yogurt, served with spiced veggies) are so skillfully made they’re often main courses. Garlic or cheese naan pairs perfectly with tomato soup.

Many Indians follow Ayurveda (“science of life”), which teaches that eating right keeps you young and healthy.

Tourists love paneer tikka—spiced, grilled cheese cubes. Paneer can be prepared dozens of ways and is a staple in India.

Lentil or bean soup (dal) is prized for its aroma and unique taste. This vegetarian dish, seasoned with herbs and spices, is daily fare for most Indians.

Most Indians are vegetarian, so some restaurants serve no meat. But local chefs excel at vegetable dishes—try sabzi (spiced mixed veggies).

Local desserts may seem overly sweet but are worth trying. Burfi (milk fudge with berries, coconut, nuts, saffron, or rosewater) is exceptionally delicate.

Cafés and Restaurants

Goa has countless cafés and restaurants—locals love good food. Tiny beachside shacks (called “sheks”) are especially popular. These quick-service joints offer limited menus but are cheap and tasty.

Shek food can be ordered to your sunbed. Prices are budget-friendly: soup ($1.50-2), shrimp ($5.50+), grilled shark ($9.50-11). Fresh juices and smoothies cost $1.40-1.70. Though cooking conditions may seem unsanitary, stomach issues are rare—vendors guard their reputations closely.

Goan restaurants serve everything from Indian curries to blood sausages. But stick to local cuisine—it’s their specialty, despite the many Italian pizzerias.

The average bill at a Goan restaurant is $16-22. A dinner with alcohol for two costs from $28.

Entertainment and Attractions

Old Goa

Old Goa, built by Portuguese colonizers in the early 16th century, is one of the state’s most visited sites. Its architecture stands out—Europeans constructed grand cathedrals here, now UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Cathedral of St. Catherine—India’s largest Catholic church and among Asia’s biggest—draws tourists and pilgrims. It houses the Chapel of the Miraculous Cross, carved by a local shepherd in the 17th century. Legend says Christ appeared to the shepherd, prompting monks to build a chapel around the cross, which miraculously grew to Golgotha’s size. Locals claim it still grows, heals the sick, and grants wishes.

The cathedral complex includes Goa’s Archaeological Museum (housed in the Church of St. Francis of Assisi). Each gallery covers a different historical period, displaying artifacts from prehistoric to modern times.

The Basilica of Bom Jesus is another Catholic pilgrimage site, holding the relics of Spanish missionary Francis Xavier. In three years in South India, he built ~40 churches and was canonized after death, becoming Goa’s patron saint.

The Church of St. Cajetan is among Old Goa’s most beautiful active churches. Restored, its exterior is stunning. Inside, a wooden platform covers an old well—possibly the only remnant of a pre-existing Hindu temple.

Forts and Military Structures

Under European rule until the late 20th century, Portugal built many forts in Goa. Today, they’re crumbling walls but offer breathtaking views. It’s surreal to see vine-covered ruins and cannons beside carefree beaches.

The imposing Aguada Fort, near Candolim Beach, is one of Goa’s best-preserved 17th-century structures. It defended against Dutch and British forces. Its most notable feature is a massive (now inactive) lighthouse.

Chapora Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1612, has been in ruins since the late 19th century. Climb the hill from Vagator Beach for ocean vistas. Though just remnant walls, it’s a tradition to spend one’s last Goan evening here.

Corjuem Fort (1705), near Aldona, is in decent shape—battlements remain intact, a coat of arms hangs above the entrance, and a Catholic altar still receives flowers and candles. Guides tell of Ursula Lancastre, a woman who disguised herself as a man to serve here. After being exposed, she escaped punishment and married the captain.

One of Goa’s prettiest forts, Yashwantgad (Redi Fort), lies near Paradise Beach on the Goa-Maharashtra border. It resembles an enchanted castle—banyan trees and vines weave through its walls, while the pristine beach and silence enhance its fairy-tale aura.

Nature Reserves

Goa’s largest sanctuary, Bhagwan Mahaveer, spans 240 km² on the Karnataka border in the Western Ghats. It’s home to elephants, tigers, bears, leopards, porcupines, and countless birds/reptiles. The Dudhsagar Waterfall and 13th-century Mahadeva Temple (Goa’s oldest) are here. Maha Shivaratri (“Great Night of Shiva”) is celebrated lavishly in February-March. Sacred texts promise material prosperity and paradise to those who stay awake during the festival.

The small but popular Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary is reachable by bus from Panaji and Margao. Its 8 km² area houses elephants, peacocks, boars, and giant squirrels, while leopards and panthers live in enclosures.

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, 12 km from Palolem, lacks big cats but teems with tropical birds and insects. Its 86 km² area has good trails and two watchtowers. Lush riverside vegetation barely lets sunlight through, sheltering hyenas, porcupines, and bears.

Near Valpoi, the Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary is a Bengal tiger habitat (India’s national animal). Spotting them is rare—cameras more often capture them than humans.

The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, near Panaji on Chorao Island, hosts ~400 bird species, including kingfishers (Goa’s unofficial mascot and namesake of a popular beer). Otters, jackals, crocodiles, and flying foxes also reside here.

The Dudhsagar Waterfall (310 m tall) is one of Goa’s most stunning sights. It’s most active during monsoons but nearly inaccessible then.

India leads global spice production—chili, cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, mustard, turmeric, asafoetida, etc. Spice plantations offer tours, spice-laden meals, and Ayurvedic consultations.

Ten Things to Do in Goa

1. Visit an Ayurvedic doctor and cure any ailment without pills.
2. Practice beach yoga and realize chakras aren’t a myth.
3. Find Shiva’s head at Vagator Beach, take a photo, and brag to less fortunate friends.
4. Consult a Vedic astrologer to finally understand your life’s purpose.
5. Get a temporary henna tattoo (mehndi) before leaving to surprise loved ones.
6. Haggle at Arpora’s market and buy things for a third of the price.
7. Order grilled shark for dinner cheaply, then sample all Goan seafood.
8. Attend an elephant show, watch them play soccer, ride one, and get sprayed.
9. Dance till dawn at a trance party.
10. Pet a local cow (if brave) for instant karma points.

Recommended: Yoga retreats in India

Trance Parties

Goa—birthplace of Goa trance music—draws crowds worldwide for mega-parties. Though marijuana initially warrants threats of life imprisonment, offenders often walk free after paying $10.

Goa’s infamous trance parties are enigmatic. Official venues (like Hill Top, free for foreigners) host all-night dances. Semi-legal “parties” depend on organizers negotiating with authorities—kids, taxi drivers, and sari sellers spread the word once approved.

Popular Goa Tours

Top excursions include: “Vasco da Gama’s Gold,” a “pirate” schooner cruise, Mumbai trips, a two-day jeep tour to abandoned Hampi, and “Discover Goa!”—a nightlife tour for mainstream tourists.

The “Spices and Crocodiles” tour (Savoi Spice Plantation + Cumbarjua Canal boat ride) is also popular. Thrill-seekers enjoy “Jungle Book – 1” (a day trek, bamboo rafting, elephant ride) and “Jungle Book – 2” (two days, adding waterfall hikes, yoga, and clay hut stays).

Family Vacation in Goa

Warm seas and sandy beaches make Goa great for families—just pick a clean, well-developed area. South Goa suits families better than the crowded north.

Beyond sun and sand, Goa offers kid-friendly activities. Little ones love Ponda’s butterfly park. Older kids enjoy dolphin-watching trips. School-age children adore wildlife sanctuaries with rare animals. Exploring ancient forts (like Aguada) feels like a pirate adventure.

Goa also has two waterparks: Melange (Blue Lady) in Baga and Splashdown near Anjuna.

Weather: Best Time to Visit Goa

Goa’s mild climate and short monsoon (June-July) allow year-round visits. The tropical winter (October-March) is ideal. Summer (April-May) can be hot and humid but bearable on the coast. June-September is relatively cool, suitable for heat-averse travelers.

October-March is perfect for families—warm days, cool nights, no winter gear needed.”