Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon (or Lisbona, Portuguese: Lisboa) is a city that inspires creation. Quiet, sun-drenched landscapes of burnt-red rooftops, white-and-blue facades, spires of ancient cathedrals, white calçada pavement underfoot, and ships passing under the red bridge on the Tagus River. A river city that smells of salt, pine, fish, spices, coffee, and fresh pastries. A city on seven hills where it’s easy to get lost and find yourself. In Lisbon, as with any other trip, it’s important to have your own personal experience, to discover new places, new cuisine, emotions, and feelings. No matter how many guidebooks are written, Lisbon is a city that continues to surprise even those who have lived there their entire lives.

Lisbon Uncovered: Find the City’s True Soul

Evening streets and lights on both sides of the river, like living Impressionist paintings. The city’s noise is soft and calm, like in old romantic movies: the lonely click of heels on cobblestones somewhere in the distance, the prelude of port wine, the chimes of church bells, and music. Here, you can absolutely randomly stumble upon a spontaneous kuduro session or teenagers with incredible voices accompanied by a guitar. And these aren’t your usual street musicians – they don’t collect money, they’re just having fun. The melancholic and profound Fado in the oldest district of Alfama – a Portuguese song whose language you don’t understand, but you feel it. It’s music that penetrates you, gently strokes all your aching soul wounds and lets go, leaving only good thoughts.

In the capital, an amazing opportunity opens up to be yourself and at the same time feel like a literary character. Lisbon – a city of six senses – fills you, charges you, and doesn’t let go. Don’t be afraid to open yourself up to this city, dive into the narrow spaces between buildings. Experiment! Believe us, no matter which direction you go, you’re heading in the right direction.

How to Get There

From Warsaw, Ryanair flies direct to Lisbon twice a week. Tickets Warsaw – Lisbon start from €72 one way. There are also direct flights from Warsaw (Chopin) to Lisbon with Wizz Air at a very pleasant price – from €30 one way.

From Vilnius, you can only get to Lisbon with connections. Try combining Wizz Air and Ryanair flights. With a lucky coincidence, a one-way trip will cost €70-90.

From Kyiv, there are no direct flights, but there are options with connections – “UIA” via various European cities (from €140), Wizz Air with a connection in Budapest (from €250 round trip), KLM via Amsterdam (from €260), Air France via Paris (from €280). In the spring of 2019, direct flights from Kyiv to Lisbon will appear with Wizz Air (from €100 one way) and airBaltic (from €117 round trip).

From Minsk, you can fly on a Belavia + Avia Jaynar mix for €110 one way.

Transport

Welcome, you’re in the city. From the airport to the center, you can get there in three ways: shuttle, metro, taxi. The metro is the cheapest (entrance right near the terminal), but not the most convenient way if your bags are heavy and you need to change lines. The AeroShuttle and AeroBus shuttle – goes through the historic center, some train stations (full route here), departs from the terminal every 20 minutes, costs €3.50 (ticket valid for 24 hours). Taxis in Lisbon are cheap, a trip from the airport to the center will cost no more than €15. All taxis are part of a single city cooperative, so fares are the same for everyone.

In the city, there are 4 main types of transport: bus, metro, tram, funicular. Also, a train runs from the center of Lisbon (Cais do Sodre) to Cascais (with stops in Belém and Algés) and a ferry sails to Cacilhas. Cost of 1 ticket: tram – €2.90, funicular – €3.20, metro/bus – €1.85, train – €2.20, ferry to Cacilhas – €1.20.

To save on travel, use the Viva Viagem card. It costs €0.50 and is topped up as needed (at machines in metro stations and in some shops). The card can be loaded with trips (viagens) or with money (zapping). If you top up with money, a trip on the metro/bus, tram, funicular/Santa Justa Lift, and ferry will cost €1.30, on the train towards Sintra and Cascais – €1.85. If you top up the card with trips – €1.45 and €2.20 respectively, but you can change transport within an hour.

If you plan many trips during the day, it’s more profitable to buy a daily pass. It’s charged onto the Viva Viagem card and becomes active from the moment of activation (first entry/trip). Options and prices:

• metro / buses, trams, Carris funiculars – €6.15
• metro / buses, trams, Carris funiculars / Transtejo Tagus ferry – €9.15
• metro / buses, trams, Carris funiculars / trains to Cascais and Sintra – €10.15.

If you plan to spend only 1-3 days in Lisbon with a rich cultural program, feel free to buy the Lisboa Card. It costs: €19 (24 hours), €32 (48 hours), €40 (72 hours). You can buy it online, at the kiosk in the arrivals hall at Portela Airport, at the Ask me Lisboa tourist office at Praça do Comércio (Rua do Arsenal, 15). With this card, you can travel on the metro, buses, trams, funiculars, and the Santa Justa Lift, and on trains towards Sintra and Cascais. Also included in the card price is entry to 28 of Lisbon’s main attractions (including the National Pantheon, Coach Museum, Belém Tower, Jerónimos Monastery, Azulejo Museum) and discounts on visiting other interesting places and even on shopping in some stores.

Few tourists know that besides the listed types of transport, Lisbon has several elevators that help save a lot of time and effort if you need to get from a lower street to an upper one. Moreover, they carry passengers for free. Main elevators:

1. Elevador De (Rua dos Fanqueiros 176/ Calçada do Marquês de Tancos 1) (helps get to the Castle of São Jorge, also convenient to use to get from the central square area to the Pingo Doce supermarket).
2. Elevador da Baixa (Largo do Chão do Loureiro 3) intermediate station when climbing to the castle, also takes you to the Miradouro do Chão do Loureiro viewpoint).
3. Elevator of Santa Luzia (Rua Norberto de Araújo 25) (will take you to the upper part of Alfama).

To get from Lisbon to Sintra and the beaches towards Cascais, use the train. The city has three main stations: Oriente, Rossio, and Cais de Sodré. The last station is key – from here you will go to the Belém district, to the beaches in Carcavelos, Estoril, and Cascais, and the river terminal is also located here, from where you can reach the other side of the river to Cacilhas and Almada. Rossio station is needed to go to Sintra, Oriente can be reached to Porto. For planning your travel budget outside Lisbon, the cp.pt website will help you.

Bicycles in Lisbon are not the most popular mode of transport due to the hilly terrain. We do not recommend taking a bicycle for getting around the city unless you are an athlete. But if you want to ride, rent a bicycle, go to Algés (you can take the bicycle on the train), where a long cycling/running path along the ocean to Cascais begins (about 30 km), and enjoy. Rental cost starts from €15/day. For €30 you can rent a scooter. By the way, these companies also offer bicycle tours.

Accommodation and Hotels

If you don’t have friends who can arrange accommodation with their friends, it’s best to use Airbnb. There’s no difference in price with local sites (verified!), but there are guarantees that you will settle in excellent conditions. Traveling with a group of friends – feel free to rent an apartment. The average price per person varies around €10-15. Apartment – from €30-40 per night.

The further north from the river, the cheaper. Don’t be tempted by Almada, it’s another city on the other side of the river – you’ll spend more on transport to get to the center of Lisbon than you’ll save. The same applies to other remote areas of the city: if you’re not ready to spend hours every day walking to key places, it’s better to stay somewhere near Cais do Sodré, Chiado, Alfama, Rossio.

If besides walking around the city you plan to often go to the ocean, take a closer look at the Lisbon suburb of Belém – this is a low-rise area of the city, built up with villas, where wealthy Lisboetas live. Many cool landmarks, iconic cafes and restaurants are concentrated here. Belém is equidistant from the city center and the nearest decent beach in Carcavelos (10 minutes by train).

Prices for rooms in decent guesthouses start from €30/night. Of course, if you’re going to Lisbon in the summer, these prices need to be multiplied by 2.

We do not recommend settling in the Vasco da Gama bridge area – firstly, it’s far from the center, secondly, it’s the modern part of the city with business centers, condominiums, and English spoken on the streets. It will be difficult to feel the atmosphere of old Europe here.

Sights and Landmarks

A great alternative to bars and clubs is the city itself. It’s one solid Miradouro (viewpoint), connected by thin, winding lines of pedestrian streets. Take a bottle of local port for €6 from the supermarket or any 24-hour shop run by Indians and dive deep into the neighborhoods. Or better yet, start from the embankment under the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge by the Tagus River, the very one that leads to Cristo Rei. This is a tourist spot where you definitely need to see Lisbon from the height of a seagull’s flight – during the day in good weather. If you’re looking at the river, the place you need is to the right of the bridge. The embankment is equipped with comfortable benches, has good lighting, and loud conversations are absorbed by the noise of the road above you. Note that drinking alcohol in public places in Portugal is not entirely legal, so simple precautions won’t hurt.

Lisbon Sights and Landmarks on the Map

Viewpoints (Miradouros)

If you use Google Maps or other navigation apps, be sure to mark the following list of viewpoints for yourself. Lisbon is a fairly dense city, so the view from each Miradouro is unique and inimitable.

So, write it down: Miradouro de Santo Amaro (R. Academia Recreativa de Santo Amaro 13), Miradouro do Recolhimento (Beco do Recolhimento), Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara (R. São Pedro de Alcântara), Miradouro das Portas do Sol (Largo Portas do Sol), Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Largo Santa Luzia), Miradouro de Santa Catarina (401, R. de Santa Catarina), Terraços do Carmo (Largo do Carmo, Chiado), Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Rua da Senhora do Monte 50), Miradouro Da Graça (Jardim Europa Gil).

[one_quote type=left]If you’re a fan of stunning rooftop views, head to the top floor of hotels – have a glass of white wine (€5) and enjoy.[/one_quote]

Rooftop Bar Entretanto in Hotel do Chiado (R. Nova do Almada 114). The hotel is right in the city center, in the Chiado district. This place hasn’t yet been discovered by all the tourists in the world, so you can calmly have a coffee or wine while looking directly at the Castelo de São Jorge, Alfama, and the river.

Rooftop Bar at VIP Executive Éden Aparthotel (Praça dos Restauradores 24). Another nearby place where you can lounge on a sunbed and discuss your impressions with friends above the huge square next to the Martim Moniz metro.

Lost In (R. Dom Pedro V 56). A themed Indian cafe, few people know about it, so you can surprise even local friends. To find this place, you’ll have to try a bit – look for the “Lost In” sign.

Museums

A significant portion of museums are concentrated in the Belém district. From there, you can also take a walk towards the center along the Tagus (river), where you’ll find several excellent galleries, including on the grounds of former factories. A few more interesting museums are scattered around the city.

Nearby is the Berardo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art – a museum of modern art that is a must-visit. In addition to the main permanent exhibition, which features works by Lissitzky, Malevich, Picasso, Warhol, you can see temporary author exhibitions of contemporary artists. Entrance is free on Saturday. Allow two to three hours.

In Belém, there are several interesting museums: Torre de Belém (Avenida Brasilia), the maritime museum Museu de Marinha (Praca do Imperio), the coach museum Museu Nacional dos Coches (Praca Afonso de Albuquerque), the presidents’ house Museu da Presidência da República (Palacio Nacional de Belem), the royal palace Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, the archaeology museum Museu Nacional De Arqueologia (Praca do Imperio) and the absolutely stunning monastery Mosteiros dos Jeronimos (Praca do Imperio), which touches even non-religious people.

If you’re already in Belém, don’t miss the newest museum in Lisbon dedicated to art, architecture, and technology, Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia, built right on the waterfront (Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, Belém 1300-598). Its unusual roof also functions as a viewpoint with a beautiful view of the bridge and the city.

Museu Do Oriente (Av. Brasília Doca de Alcântara Norte). The Museum of Oriental Art is dedicated to the Portuguese expansion in Asia. It is located in a former port warehouse building. A completely different world is presented here, from works of art to simple household items. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Expect to spend two hours of your life on something beautiful.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Rua das Janelas Verdes). The National Museum of Ancient Art. It houses an amazing collection of works of art from India, China, Japan, and Africa, brought here during discoveries and conquests. You can also check out paintings and sculptures by world-famous artists from all over Europe – Bosch, Bruegel, Raphael, Velázquez. Expect to spend about two hours.

The Azulejo Museum Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Rua da Madre de Deus 4) – is an obligatory part of the cultural program if you are fascinated by the appearance of Lisbon’s houses with colorful tiles on the walls. The museum operates in the building of the Madre de Deus Convent (16th century), which enhances the aesthetic pleasure.

The Fado Museum Museu do Fado (Largo Chafariz de Dentro 1), located right in the center of Alfama, will introduce you to the history of this musical style and the Portuguese guitar, and tell you about how typical Fado bars are set up. If by the end of the tour your heart is singing in unison with Portuguese musicians, check out the Fado School, which is located right there.

The frigate Dom Fernando II e Gloria (Largo Alfredo Dinis, Almada) – in the town of Cacilhas (15 min by ferry from Cais do Sodre) on the shore, a ship-museum is moored, which is one of the five oldest military sailing ships in the world. The frigate “Dom Fernando II e Gloria” is the last sailing ship in the history of the Portuguese navy, built in the Portuguese colony in Goa. Today it is a museum with brave wax sailors. Walk on its deck and see how the cook in the galley prepares dinner for the entire frigate crew.

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Av. Berna 45A). The personal art collection of patron Calouste Gulbenkian, which he started collecting from the age of 14. Here you can admire real masterpieces – starting from the times of ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Assyria, Ancient Greece, ancient Japan, Armenia, and ending with the mid-20th century. Gulbenkian collected only “the most pleasant” – and it really is a collection of complex and beautiful things for contemplation, admiration, and inspiration. You can see everything in two to three hours, depending on how thoroughly you study the collection.

Contemporary Art

Centro de Arte Moderna (Rua Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt). The place you’ll go after digesting everything you saw at the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian over a cup of coffee. The Center for Modern Art is located in the adjacent building and was created with the support of the same Gulbenkian Foundation to develop contemporary art in Portugal. The curators carefully select the temporary exhibition each time. Here you can see works by contemporary Portuguese creators alongside works by world-famous sculptors, painters, and photographers. The museum is small, so you’ll manage in an hour. Free on Sunday.

If you’ve finished with the Gulbenkian museums, you can take a walk to the contemporary art gallery Galeria 111 (Campo Grande 113). Despite the gallery being over half a century old, few tourists know about it, but it’s popular in the art scene. Check the website and keep track of exhibition updates. Admission is free.

If you’ve reached Galeria 111, it means you need to walk a bit more and visit Carlos Carvalho Arte Contemporãnea (Rua Joly Braga Santos). The exhibition is updated annually, and many other interesting events are held here. The gallery itself has several international awards. You gotta take it!

Centro Cultural de Belém (Praça do Império). A huge complex consisting of galleries and lecture halls where contemporary photographers, artists, and sculptors exhibit. Lectures on contemporary art are held here, and you can also listen to chamber concerts by world-famous musicians.

Nearby is the Berardo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art – a museum of modern art that is a must-visit. In addition to the main permanent exhibition, which features works by Lissitzky, Malevich, Picasso, Warhol, you can see temporary author exhibitions of contemporary artists. Admission is free. Allow two to three hours.

Cristina Guerra Contemporary Art (Rua Santo António à Estrela 33). A private contemporary art gallery exhibiting works by contemporary authors from around the world. The selection is usually amazing, definitely worth going.

Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea do Chiado (R. Serpa Pinto 4). Museum of Portuguese contemporary art. It houses a large collection of works by masters from the 19th–20th centuries, and yes, purely for comparison, Auguste Roden is represented. You’ll spend 2 hours and be happy!

Trema Arte Contemporãnea (Rua do Jasmim 30). As you’ve already understood, Lisbon loves contemporary art very much, so there are many grants here to support local masters, and for this reason, Portugal has someone to be proud of. Trema Arte Contemporãnea exhibits works by young artists, but in this case, we’re not talking about dilettantism, but about a new perspective on contemporary art.

MUDE – Design and Fashion Museum (Rua Augusta, 24). The Design Museum is located right in front of the arch leading to Praça do Comércio. The main exhibition is for those who love the aesthetics of the 60s. Professional fashion or interior designers will likely sigh and finish viewing the exhibition for decency’s sake, but the most interesting part is on the floors above, so don’t rush to leave. On the second and third floors, you can get lost in temporary exhibitions where you can trace the development and periodicity of fashion for household items or luxury goods. What it looked like, how it was developed, and why, in fact, the dress is red, not green. Admission is free.

Galeria de Arte AFK (Rua Professor Fernando da Fonseca 21A). The gallery is not in the most convenient location, but if you love photography, it’s worth the trip. The location features works by cool photographers, contemporary artists, and young Portuguese talents.

Art Spaces

• LX Factory (Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103) – an art center organized on the site of a former factory right under the 25 de Abril bridge. Here you’ll find galleries, concept stores, cafes, a restaurant, brand boutiques, and a huge bookstore “Ler Devagar“. Exhibitions, theater performances are held here, and on weekends – a fashionable market from local designers. Before you come, check the event program.
• Galeria Zé dos Bois, ZDB (Rua da Barroca 59) – a cultural center born as a civic initiative back in 1994 in a former palace building. They position themselves as Lisbon’s free space, supporting experimental and alternative art. Exhibitions by artists, lectures, concerts, and film screenings are held here. There is a bar and an open rooftop terrace. An absolutely non-touristy place right in the center of Bairro Alto.
• Chapito (Costa do Castelo 1) – an art space on the site of a former prison. This venue houses a professional acting school, a bar with live music, a restaurant with panoramic windows, and also a circus school that helps reintegrate vulnerable youth. Chapito also hosts and creates performances and festivals.
• Fabrica do Braco de Prata (Fábrica de Material de Guerra 1) – a place of attraction for creative people that appeared on the site of an arms factory from the time of Salazar. In the evenings, music plays and movies are shown here. The building also houses a bookstore, a small showroom, and a bar-restaurant. Most concerts are in a free donation format, the minimum bar is €5.

Architecture / Palaces / Castles

When you go to Belém, go see the Torre de Belém (Av. de Brasília 1400-038), which has been standing on the riverbank since the end of the 15th century. The most interesting thing here is at sunset, during high tide, to sit on the steps and watch the waves break against the walls of the tower, while boats and ships slowly sail along the river.

A bit uphill from Belém is another iconic landmark – the National Palace of Ajuda Palácio Nacional da Ajuda (Largo Ajuda 1349-021) – a colorful unfinished building, however, in which the royal family lived. The thing is, the palace was started not in the best of times (end of the 18th century, wars, financial difficulties), and the queue for its back wall never came. The exterior of the palace is not particularly impressive, which cannot be said about the interior interiors. You must see this.

Castle of St. George Castelo de S. Jorge (Castelo de S. Jorge, 1100-129) – is at least one of the best viewpoints in Lisbon. Walk along its fortress walls and feed the peacocks that peacefully roam the castle grounds.

Palace of the Marquises of Fronteira Palácio Marquês de Fronteira (Largo São Domingos de Benfica 1) – the residence of the Portuguese marquises, built away from the noisy city center. The facade of the building is unimpressive, probably why tourists often pass by. But you must go inside the courtyard, and you yourself won’t notice how you find yourself in the 17th century and some marquis (by the way, the palace still belongs to the Fronteira family) will politely raise his hat when meeting you. The palace is surrounded by a garden, which is tended by some perfectionist – perfect paths, bushes, and trees. It is decorated with marble sculptures and a chapel.

Aqueduct Águas Livres (Calcada Quintinha, 6) – 35 arches 65 meters high, offering a stunning view of the city. This is one of the most beautiful locations in the city, which, however, evokes not the most pleasant associations among locals. Until the second half of the 19th century, the aqueduct not only delivered water but also served as a footpath. Many suicides settled their scores with life in this picturesque place, and once the path was chosen by the serial killer Diogo Alves. For over a century it was closed. Today you can walk it again for just €2 (Entrance from the Jardim do Aqueduto garden side).

Shopping

Food

In Lisbon, there are two main supermarket chains: Pingo Doce and Continente. Pingo Doce is cheaper, Continente has more choice. In these chain stores, you can buy fresh seafood and meat, vegetables/fruits (including diced ones), cheeses (excellent selection of cheeses at Continente in the El Corte Inglês department store), freshly squeezed orange juice (Pingo Doce), hot pastries, and of course, alcohol.

Note that most grocery stores close early (for example, Pingo Doce at 21:00). If you decide to cook dinner yourself but don’t take care of buying groceries in advance, or want to buy a bottle of port late in the evening, you’re in for an unpleasant surprise: finding a grocery store open late is a problem. At night in Lisbon, only Indian and Chinese shops are open. There is a 24-hour grocery store with a decent range of goods (including alcohol) not far from LX Factory, you can get there by tram №15. The store is right at the Estação de Santo Amaro stop.

Shopping Malls

Lisbon is a suitable place for full-fledged shopping (they say that Zara in Portugal is cheaper than in Spain). To go shopping, the Portuguese usually go to one of two shopping malls: Colombo (Av. Lusíada 1500-392), which is located right next to the Colegio Militar/Luz metro station, or Vasco da Gama (Av. D. João II, 1990-094), located in another part of the city, near the Oriente station. Colombo is one of the ten largest shopping centers in Europe.

In the city center, there is the El Corte Inglês department store, between the streets António Augusto de Aguiar, Marquês de Fronteira, and Sidónio Pais – here they sell more expensive brand items, in the basement – a large Cotinente supermarket.

The Portuguese make good and inexpensive leather (and cork) shoes. The most popular shoe store chains are Seaside and Guimarães.

If you are more interested in designer items and small brands, head to the Concept Store Embaixada (Praça do Príncipe Real 26).

Souvenirs

For traditional Portuguese goods, go to Vida Portuguesa (Rua Anchieta 11, Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 23). Here you will find traditional ceramics, jams, coffee, liqueurs, preserves, chocolate, and more. The inflated prices are compensated by the soulful atmosphere and beautiful product displays.

Cork products are one of Lisbon’s main features. Walk past the Indian shops, which are plentiful in the city center, and go to stores selling branded items: Cork & Co (Rua das Salgadeiras, 10) and ++Pelcor (Pátio do Tijolo, 16). Here you will see cork bags, document holders, clutches, bracelets, belts, hats, wallets, and even umbrellas!

You can’t leave Lisbon without taking a few cans of fish preserves with you (note that the preserves contain liquid, and you are unlikely to carry more than 1 can in your hand luggage). You can buy preserves anywhere, even those from Pingo Doce are tasty. But if you want something craft and exclusive, go to the store with an authentic interior Conserveira de Lisboa (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34) which has specialized in preserves since 1930. Bright cans contain tuna, cod, sardines, and octopus, covered in various sauces.

Another Lisbon veteran shop is known for handmade leather gloves and its small size (no more than three people can be inside at the same time). Luvaria Ulisses (Rua do Carmo 87-a) appeared in 1925, its gloves have been worn by many famous politicians and artists.

If you respect the eco-lifestyle, then you should definitely check out the Garbags store (Calçada da Graça 16-16A), which sells only upcycled handmade items, bags, backpacks, belts, wallets, pencil cases, keychains, mobile phone cases. Everything is made from milk cartons, coffee packaging, pet food, juices, and chips.

Love sewing? Then don’t be lazy to go to the fabric store Vidal Tecidos (Rua Saraiva de Carvalho nº 356-B, near the terminus of tram № 28). The store has a huge selection of fabrics with local textures: sardines, tiled roofs, multi-colored houses, boats, swallows, roosters, azulejos, books – you want to buy everything to return home and turn your apartment into a little Lisbon! The Portuguese take these fabrics to sew pillows, towels, or make fabric paintings.

Markets

In Lisbon, there is one place you need to visit, even if you fiercely hate shopping – the old flea market Feira da Ladra, which has been taking place near the walls of the National Pantheon (Campo de Santa Clara 1100-472) every Tuesday and Saturday for 135 years now. Black and white photographs and postcards, records, books, old dishes, dolls, suitcases and bags, clothes, watches, jewelry, azulejo tiles – you can wander and touch for hours. True, the conscious part of the Portuguese is skeptical about this place. Feira da Ladra translates from Portuguese as “thieves’ market,” it is possible that stolen goods are still sold here today (in particular, azulejo tiles, which are illegally removed from buildings). But it’s definitely worth stopping by as if it were a museum.

If you want to see a traditional local market where Lisboetas buy fruits and vegetables, cheeses and smoked meats, don’t be lazy to get to Feira do Relógio (Avenida Santo Condestável 1950 292). The market operates every Sunday from 7:00 to 14:00. The Portuguese come here with their families to stock up on groceries for the week. If you get hungry, try the real bifanas (pork meat sandwich) and curatos (pork rinds) here.

Life Hacks and Useful Information

• If you suddenly need to change money, know that the best rate is at banks. They only work on weekdays, and in some, to exchange money, you must be their client. In the latter case, the bank employee will advise you of the nearest exchange office that does not charge a commission. They are usually hidden a bit further from the central streets. If there’s no way to find out, change currency at the Indians in any souvenir shop. The further from the center, the better the deal. Of course, you will get less than you would like, but in any case, it’s more than in a regular tourist exchange office.
• Be prepared that at every intersection or square you will be offered to buy illegal substances. They will promise that you try first and then make a decision. Our advice to you: don’t buy!
• Remember basic safety. If you are traveling by car and your license plates are not Portuguese, then there is a very high probability that you will have to replace the side window and say goodbye to the stereo. This can happen anywhere, even in the very center. Leave the car in underground parking lots. Watch your pockets on public transport, especially on trams. Overall, Lisbon is a calm city, they value tourists and try not to offend them.
• Wear comfortable and non-slip shoes. The calçada, the beautiful white stone that paves all the sidewalks in the city, is quite slippery, and falling is a common occurrence for both locals and visitors. Forget about heels, otherwise the trip will turn into hell.
• Trams and buses in Lisbon operate on a “request stop” principle. Therefore, if you are waiting for transport at a stop and see an approaching bus/tram, wave, otherwise it will pass by. If you are inside the transport and need to get off, look for the red button and press it so the driver stops. In electric trams and trains, the doors do not open automatically. To exit/enter, you need to press the button near the doors.

In the evening (and sometimes during the day) a cool wind blows in Lisbon even in August. A light jacket is always relevant.

• • Free wi-fi in the city is tight, even in some chains (McDonald’s and Starbucks) it’s password protected. To get on the internet, you’ll have to go to a cafe or get on the electric tram №15. Free wi-fi can be found in the Time Out Market area (Cais do Sodre), shopping centers (Freeport, Almada Forum, Alvalade, Colombo, Vasco da Gama), in the metro, at the airport (30 minutes). In Cascais, free internet is available on the beaches.
  • Fires are one of Portugal’s main scourges, so you can only light a fire in specially designated areas. Violation threatens not only with a fine but also with arrest. Don’t risk it.
  • If you go to the beach, keep in mind that there are no changing rooms on the beaches. There are public toilets near some beaches, but they close at 6-7 PM.
  • Always have some cash with you. If you want to have a snack for up to €5, some cafes/kiosks/stores won’t be able to check you out because their minimum card payment is €5. The problem can also arise in other places – some terminals in Lisbon are “configured” only for national bank cards.
  • In many pastelarias, pharmacies, butcher shops, and other stores, you will not be served without a ticket, even if you didn’t know and stood in line for half an hour. So, when entering a store/cafe, look around to see if there is a stand with a roll of tickets nearby. In supermarkets, each department may have its own separate roll. In a cafe, there will be two rolls – to go (Para Levar) and for here. This system operates in the A Padaria Portuguesa chain.
  • In any guide to Lisbon, you will read that on the first Sunday of the month, entry to Lisbon’s museums is free. Don’t fall for it. It’s only free for residents of Portugal.