When you go on a trip for the “local flavor,” keep in mind that Istanbul is not only about the Ottoman Empire and the ruins of Byzantium. The locals are also contemporary artists, urbanists, third-wave coffee shop lovers, and others who share the same views as millions of millennials around the world. Here are some places to find those who will speak the same language as you.
SALT
(Arap Cami Mahallesi, Bankalar Caddesi No.11 Karaköy)
In Karaköy, on Bankalar Street, there is a pretentious building of the former Imperial Ottoman Bank, which has been transformed into a platform for contemporary art. Entrance is free, and you can visit the Museum of Banking, walk around the different floors and see the Art Nouveau interiors that are uncharacteristic of Ottoman architecture, go in and spend an hour or two in the Research Center (the loud name means a fairly modern and beautiful library that anyone can use). As a bonus, there is a bookstore, coffee shops, workshops for artists, a gallery for various exhibitions, and a gorgeous window with two chairs in front of it, placed there to admire the Golden Horn. Tip: if you see these chairs empty, take them and don’t get up, no matter what. Or at least make a wish: empty chairs in front of the window are rare. The space is open every day except Monday, from 10.00 to 19.00, on Sunday from 12.00 to 18.00.
Bomontiada
(Merkez Mahallesi, Silahşör Caddesi, Birahane Sokak, Tarihi Bomonti Bira Fabrikası No:1, 34384 Şişli)
The Turks have a complicated relationship with beer: they love to drink it, but they are learning to brew it slowly. Beaumontiada is perhaps the only place in the city where you can find decent craft beer, at the same time check out a contemporary art exhibition or attend a performance, hang out with Turkish startups, eat Turkish cuisine, listen to modern Turkish jazz bands or attend a workshop. All this on the territory of an old brewery surrounded by office skyscrapers. Sitting in the garden among the turrets, raise a glass to the Beaumonti brothers from Switzerland, because they built this brewery and were the first to brew beer in the Ottoman Empire.
Nishantashi Park
(Harbiye Mahallesi, Valikonağı Caddesi, Nişantaşı)
Istanbul is full of parks and cats. Going to another park to see cats might be too extravagant. However, the park in Nişantaşı is more of an urban phenomenon than just a park. Once upon a time, Istanbul residents noticed that cats in this park were always well-groomed, and their nutrition, health, and population were monitored. Then everyone who found a kitten on the street or wanted to get rid of their own animal began to bring them here. The population of cats began to grow dramatically, which jeopardized the sterilization procedure. Now there is a sign in the park warning of criminal liability for throwing cats into the park and calling for people to take the animals home – for anyone who is looking for a silent and furry companion. In the park, you can see “cat hostels” and relaxed and confident cats. This is what responsibility and humanism look like.
Sanjaklar Underground Mosque
(Karağaç Mahallesi, Sırtköy Çiftliği Mevkii G 84 Bulvarı, 34500 Büyükçekmece)
Most mosques in Istanbul are similar to each other, and after the second one it is difficult to distinguish them. The Sancaklar Mosque is a different story – it is so different from the usual bathhouses that it is difficult to immediately realize that it is a mosque. It was built in 2013 by the famous Turkish architect Emre Arolat and won the first prize in the nomination “Best Religious Building in Turkey” at the World Architecture Festival. The mosque is located in the Büyükçekmece district, which is practically the end of the city, so it will take a long time to get there. But this is a great opportunity to take a fresh look at the idiom “aesthetics of the urban outskirts”. The courtyard of the mosque resembles either a cubist painting or an art space, but closer to prayer time, typical Turkish grandfathers will gather there for prayer. Pay attention to the work with light and shadow. Almost all the theological accents are placed without the use of calligraphy or paintings.
Kubbe Gallery
(Mercan Mahallesi, Nasuhiye Sokak 19/1, 34116 Fatih)
Sooner or later, you’ll start looking for an observation deck higher up to get a good look at the Bosphorus. And sooner or later, you will try to get to one of the roofs of medieval shopping centers – the hans, which are located between the Egyptian and the covered bazaars. The once popular and accessible rooftop on Valide Khan is now closed, so go to the neighboring one, Sagir Khan. The guys from Kubbe correctly calculated that since there are so many people on the roof, it is worthwhile to use this space somehow and opened a gallery. There is a coworking room (used mostly by cats to sleep), a modest library, a room for local artists to work, and an exhibition hall where you can buy antique carpets and pillows. The corridor is lined with various kitschy handmade bags, jewelry, and other nonsense. The guys who look after the Gallery will be happy to tell you about every pillow they have and give you tea.
Küçüköyali Archaeological Park
(Çınar Mahallesi, Gürkan Sokak No:4, 34841 Maltepe)
The ruins of Byzantine monasteries in Istanbul are no surprise. Even if it is the Asian part of the city. Even if the monastery was named after Satyr. So, when such a monastery was found, the excavation leaders realized that they would not have to count on crowds of tourists, and chose a different strategy. Instead of focusing on foreigners who miss the great Orthodox empire, the archaeologists relied on local children. Now, during the excavation season (2-3 months a year), various events are held here to involve the local population in the study of this location. There are children’s clubs, open-air concerts, films about archaeology, free tours, and many other events. If you are lucky enough to visit Istanbul in the summer, the park can be reached quickly by metro from Kadikoy (Küçüköy station).
Photos: Refik Anadol, sosyalayak.com, Connie Tsang, Thomas Mayer, Kubbe İstanbul
